OLA! TEN DAYS IN MEXICO ON MY OWN!

After a lovely weekend with the Wampach family in San Diego, I had to get up very early for my flight to Los Angeles and then to Cancun in Mexico. Noddy and I were up at 4.30 as my flight left at 6.45. Both flights were very comfortable and I was happy not to be charged the extra $25 for luggage – maybe because my destination was not in the USA. The kind lady at the check-in counter booked my luggage right through even though I was going on two different airlines and also to my hand luggage into the hold – an added bonus! I didn’t get to see Los Angeles, but I did get to fly over it! On the flight to Mexico, I sat next to two men from Long Beach who were going on holiday to Mexico. Gary is a private chef to the rich and famous and his friend, Jeff, helps him and manages some chain stores. They were about my age and charming company – once I woke up from a two-hour nap! We seemed to have read all the same books and seen all the same movies. They offered to take me with them on Wednesday as they were hiring a car and I agreed.

I arrived in Cancun airport late in the afternoon and caught a bus into the main bus station and then a taxi to my Airbnb accommodation. The taxi driver got lost and we ended up phoning my host for directions – so I finally got there after 6pm. Benoit, my host, wasn’t there so I was met by Jan, a Belgian man also staying there and he helped me get settled. We went out to buy some tacos and when we returned, Benoit was back and teaching a lovely Mexican lady French. Benoit is French, but not a teacher – and he allowed me to help him teach Janetta – it was fun! My room was huge and I had a good rest.

The next day, I set off looking for the shops and found a big supermarket so I could stock up and get a taxi – to the ferry terminal! Where else! On Natalie’s advice, I went over to Isla de Mujeres – Ladies’ Island. It was only a fifteen-minute ferry ride and the island is quite small. I walked around for a while and then booked a trip on a boat to do some snorkelling. The boat was supposed to take ten – in the end we were seventeen including the three crew – and obviously part of a well-planned conveyor belt of tiny boats doing the same trip, but all at different stages! The first inkling I got of this was when our boat parked on the beach about 100 metres from where we started so the driver could get petrol! The sea was beautiful to swim in, but absolutely flat. We then went out to snorkel – my mask was terrible and I kept getting some of the Caribbean up my nose and in my ears– very salty water! We moved to another place where there were some statues under the water (a bit like those famous Chinese ones) and that was good – I had another mask by then. There were some interesting people on board – a New Age kind of lady who kept talking about the sun and energy. She was actually very sweet – she visits orphanages to hug children there because she knows they need affection. Another nice Mexican lady was there with her boyfriend, James, from Cuba – James? Yes, his dad loves James Bond – and James cannot speak one word of English! There were also two nice Australian girls with us. We had lunch – very late – and then got caught in the rain. So, I ended up getting back on the ferry and taking a taxi home soaking wet with my wet towel around me!

I got up very early on Wednesday, went out into the street and found a taxi, got to the bus station and took the bus to Playa del Carmen, more than an hour’s ride away. Transport in Mexico is super cheap – that bus ride in an air-conditioned coach was only 60 pesos – about R48! I was to meet Gary and Jeff at 7.30 and I was there bang on time – but they weren’t! I waited and waited – and finally gave up at 8.50. I must admit that I had prickly tears starting in my eyes! Anyway, it is times like these when I know I have to keep going and make a plan – and so I did. I found some pamphlets and thought I’d book a trip – too late! And then, a lady at one of the booths told me to find the collectivo – the local minibus, which was three blocks away. I walked there and found a minibus (taxi) going to Tulum and so I paid my 30 pesos – the same price as a choc-ice – and went on a one-hour trip down the coast with a minibus full of Mexicans and no-one to talk to! I got out at Tulum – the town – and then had to find another minibus to get to the ruins – and I did! I just waited on the highway until one came by. That was only a fifteen-minute trip. I managed to resist all the touts trying to sell me “bargain trips” and walked down a long, dusty road to the ticket office. It was extremely hot, but I was determined to get there and to see these wonderful Mayan ruins. I was not disappointed! They are spectacular and are right on the coast. In fact, some overlook the Caribbean Sea. There was very little shade and the mosquitoes were out. Mexican mosquitoes are very vicious – they draw blood immediately and I’m obviously tasty! Luckily, there weren’t many around though.

When I left the ruins, I spoke to one of the officials who knew some English and he told me how to get to a cenote – an amazing system of underground caves full of stalagmites and stalactites. This was such a good idea, especially as it was so hot and I had my swimming costume with me. On the way back to the highway to hail a collectivo (I was getting good at this!), I passed two girls who persuaded me to book with them, which proved to be a very good plan. I hailed a collective, paid my money and got dropped off about 15 kilometres away at the Dos Ojos (Two Eyes) Cenote. Once inside, a short – very short – Mayan guy called Enrique put me in his 4x4 and took me about ten kilometres down a dirt road to meet Chico, my private guide! Sometimes, I wonder what I am letting myself in for – but it all turns out all right in the end.

I changed, left my shoes at the entrance to the cenote and got into the beautiful, clear, cool water! What a wonderful experience I had – Chico was charming and knowledgeable and he took my cellphone and took photos for me. We had to swim under a cave of bats (Louise, you’ll know how much courage that took!) and then through caves of beauty as we saw the different formations of stalactites and stalagmites. We were in the caves for over an hour. When we got back to the entrance, a small group of Uruguayans weaso getting in and one lady was very nervous. I put out my hand to help her and she nearly pulled me out! She asked if I was British and when I finally coaxed her in, she said, “thank you Mary Poppins! I took that as a compliment!

 Enrique was summonsed to fetch me and he drove me to another cenote where I used my own goggles and swam. There were some Argentinians there and they were quite alarmed when I told them I could see beautiful pescados! I had seen the word “pescado” on the menu and knew it meant fish – but it mean dead cooked fish – no wonder they were alarmed! What I was seeing were just pesce – I think. We left to drive back and past one of the ladies I’d seen at the cenote so we gave her a lift. She and I then palled up and found a minibus to Playa del Carmen where her hotel was – and where I’d have to get the bus back to Cancun. Her English is quite good and she is a doctor in Buenos Aires – we had a great time together, went shopping in the little shops in Playa del Carmen and in Wal-Mart where she “forced” me to buy a nice peach dress and had coffee before parting. She told me I was a “mad woman” – again, I took that as a compliment! I had supper in a little restaurant on the main drag and enjoyed watching life go by! 

Then, it was the bus to Cancun, another taxi with another driver who got lost, another phone call to Benoit for directions and finally I was home at about 9pm! There was an email waiting for me too – the two men had gone to the wrong station and had only realized this after waiting for me for quite a while and then headed for my station and we had literally just missed one another. This was a pity, but I was proud of myself for getting going and having some really great experiences.

Benoit booked a taxi for me the next morning and it was back to the airport on the coach and another flight – this time to Mexico City. The plane was huge and only about a third full so I had a whole row to myself. I watched some TV and relaxed. Flying over Mexico City is something else – it is HUGE! The population is around 25 million and it has more museums than any city in the world! I had lots of complicated instructions from my next Airbnb host, Bernardo. As I emerged from the airport, I found Starbucks, bought a cappuccino and sat down outside. I started chatting to the people sitting there and found a young chap called Louis who offered to help me. We left my luggage with his two friends (me ever trusting) and went to find out where the train was! We saw the taxi office so I stopped there and found the taxi wasn’t that expensive – so change of plans! At the airport, you pay a set rate and that was good as my trip was long and the traffic was bad. I have since realized that the traffic is always hectic – too many people and too many vehicles! The best surprise for me was that my taxi was a VW Jetta – yay! The taxis in Cancun were mostly very old Nissans – one even had 520 000 kilometres on the clock! So I was very happy to be in the back seat of “my” car!

I got to my new home and my 37^th bed late in the afternoon. This time, I had really chosen well as I was right “in the zone” in the Centro Historico – the old part of Mexico City and literally five blocks from the Major Square and Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral – AND the place settled by Cortez so long ago! I went in through a very old wooden door, down a long passage and up some stairs to a quad full of flowers! It looked too beautiful for words until I realized that all the flowers were artificial! Bernardo and his wife, Gitte, from Denmark, were there to greet me. There are fourteen apartments in the block on two levels. It used to be a convent which was built over 450 years ago and so we are staying in the nuns’ rooms!

 My room was in a loft on the newly-created second floor with a little lounge outside and a place for me to work on my laptop. Luckily, the only bathroom was upstairs right near my room. There was a skylight in my room and Bernardo told me the dome was above it. Wow – I had visions of a romantic cupola Renaissance kind of dome – alas when I looked outside, I found it was just a big plastic drum! The room was quite stuffy and so I was glad when Bernardo could give me a fan to use. Bernardo told me that the apartments were to be one of the scenes for a soapie being filmed soon. Imagine a red-headed South African lurking into a Mexican soapie? Another alas – no sign of the film crew while I was there! The film company had also erected cages on the roof for the tenants – can’t spoil a good soapie by literally hanging out the dirty washing!

Mexico City is very exciting and very strange at the same time. I keep feeling I am in Spain, probably because I hear Spanish, but the people are different looking. Most Mexicans are very short and they all seem to think it is winter when I am very hot – because the weather is still great! I had decided to stay for a week to re-group, to relax and to experience the city without my usual galoppy gallop! It proved to be a good decision! There were shops all around me in Avenue February 5^th – lots of sewing machine shops and pharmacies, in particular. One of the challenges of being in a new city is getting to terms with the food. I felt the same way I had in Thailand – confused! I am very afraid, even terrified, of hot spicy food and there was not much I recognized so I have to make a big confession – I ate at MacDonald’s twice! It was wonderful to have an ordinary chicken salad! I had another embarrassing moment there though – I couldn’t get the lady to understand that I wanted the bathroom – I tried WC, toiletta…then had to resort to hand gestures which I hope weren’t too crude – I kind of waved my hands down below and put on a desperate face – she laughed and showed me the bagno!

On my first day, I decided to go on the red bus around town. It was fantastic – so interesting once I got the headphones speaking English and well worth the R110 I paid. The newer part of town is very European-like with gorgeous wide boulevards and lots of trees. There are also many splendid monuments, each with a story to tell. I enjoyed the one about the statue of Diana the chaste. Apparently between 1960 and 1985 she was made to wear a metal skirt to protect her modesty! Christopher Columbus pops up too – pointing to the Americas. No sign of Captain Cook though this time! The trip was two hours long – mine ended up being almost double that! There are three other routes which branch off form the main one and I wanted to take one of those, but I realized we were repeating our route. Then I saw all the riot police in the streets and found out that several roads were blocked owing to student riots. More about that just now!

So, I jumped off the bus and started walking and looking for the Metro – which I had never used. I remembered that Bernardo’s original instructions said that I needed to get off at a station called Isabel la Catolica so I thought I’d head there. I wasn’t ready for the shock I got on the underground. Buying the one way ticket – only R4 – was easy and working out the map was fine, despite some truly unpronounceable Mexican names of more than 15 letters! The shock was the heaving masses of people on the trains, probably made worse because of the problems in the streets. I got onto the train and then found myself being pushed forward and squashed between two sweaty male bodies, almost unable to breathe, let alone count the number of stops for me to get out and change trains. I made it home eventually – another adventure which turned out well.

Back to the riots – I asked Gitte what was going on and she explained that the students were protesting about students who were killed in 1968 and also, more poignantly, about the 43 students who went missing last year, thought to have been killed by the Police. Only two bodies have been found. It has been distressing and, at the same time, comforting, to see so many police on the streets. It seems to me that the President is not very popular and it would seem that he is afraid too. There are police with plastic riot shields especially in the Main Square where the President has his office. There are security guards everywhere – especially outside banks, cellphone shops and the Apple Store! I had been warned about pickpockets, but I don’t think anyone would dare try that.

On Saturday, I got up late and walked down to the Main Square – again there were lots of Police around – and I had a lovely day. First, I went to the Tempo Mayor, which was so fascinating. These are ruins from one of the main temples of the Aztecs in their capital city of Tenochtitlan, now Mexico City. It was first built in 1325 and destroyed by the Spanish in 1521. Lots still remains – it seems snakes, frogs, crocodiles and eagles were especially important to the Aztecs and there were also some human sacrifices made here – skulls were found. Amazingly, the site was only discovered in 1978, because the Spanish had destroyed it and built on top of it. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. More than 7 000 objects were found during excavations and they are in the museum on the site. Apparently, seven temples were re-built on the site, the last of which was built in 1519. One last interesting bit of history – the Templo Mayor is located on the exact spot where the god, Huitzilopochtli gave the Mexica people his sign that they had reached the promised land – an eagle on a cactus with a snake in its mouth – and that is what we see in the middle of the Mexican flag. I loved walking around the museum which is well documented. 

After that, I went inside the Metropolitan Cathedral, which is the largest one in the southern hemisphere. It was exquisitely beautiful and full of fresh dahlias. Outside there is an interesting statue of Pope John Paul the Second. The Virgin Mary is engraved in his front and his back is full of keys – to the Kingdom. After that, I walked to the Museum of Fine Arts where there are several interesting murals telling the story of Mexico. That was a very interesting day.

On Sunday, I started out a bit later and took the Metro to Chapultec (grasshopper) Station. There is a huge park there and several museums. I queued for over an hour to go into the national Archaeological Museum and the wait was really worth it. The museum is so cleverly laid out as it tells the story of all the cultures and tribes which make up Mexico today. Luckily, the main displays were described in English too so I could do a lot of reading. One of my major frustrations in Mexico has been the language barrier – and everyone knows I love to chat and discuss things – so I had more time for peace (from myself too!) and refection in Mexico. I must add that everyone I tried to communicate with for whatever reason – usually to check directions and whether or not I was on the correct train or bus – was so kind and really tried to understand me. So I haven’t gathered many friends, but I have gathered interesting facts.

After the museum, I walked through the park, past many many market stalls and up the hill to the Castle which is no longer inhabited, although the Emperor Maximillian 1 lived there. It is on an ancient Aztec site and is now a history museum. The walk down was much easier and I headed down the main boulevard until I found Starbucks and a good cappuccino! Coming home presented more Metro challenges and again the people around me were so kind – one man even allowed me through and used his card to pay for me before showing me which line to take.

Bernardo gave me a new set of directions for my Monday adventure. I walked to the tram and took it right up to the huge bus station in the north. There I bought a ticket to Teotihuacan to see the marvelous ancient pyramids. Again I was amazed at the reasonable price for the trip in a luxury coach – only R65 return! I met two American girls at the exit and had a nice chat – yay, people to talk to – then I explored on my own for over four hours. The place is truly amazing – I saw the Temple of the Feathered Shells, Quetzalpapalotl’s Temple and the Pyramids to the Sun and the Moon. I climbed the 44 steep steps up the first one and was exhausted when I got to the top. I think the altitude was partly to blame! The Avenue of the Dead goes through all of them and there is an interesting museum there too. The cactus and prickly pairs reminded me that I was in Mexico! I went home the way I had come, but had no idea where to get off the tram – one lady tried to help and told me to get out – but I was lost, so I found a nice couple who helped me home. I wasn’t actually that lost – I had just got off the tram too late.

On Tuesday, I stayed home and did some washing and some work on my laptop and then went for a five-hour walk. The police were out in full force again and I witnessed another protest – this time quite an unusual one! Men and women in very little clothing were outside the Fine Arts Museum and singing songs. The nice chap next to me used his Google translator to let me know that they were protesting against the Government – no surprise there – again about the missing students, about land being taken too. Their lack of clothing symbolized the fact that they felt that even the clothing off their backs  was being stolen from them. I wondered into churches and museums, including the Mexico City museum which had an exhibition on about the earthquakes in Mexico City – not very comforting! I also strolled through one of the bigger markets and had lunch there. Some Iranians now living in Canada chatted to me, which was nice.

Wednesday was my last day in Mexico and so I decided to head south to the Frida Kahlo Museum in the Coyocan District. More transport challenges – and I managed! so many "salesmen and women" walk through the train selling everything you can imagine - pens, CDs, toothpaste, chocolates.... some even give out their wares and then return for payment or the goods to be returned. somehow, I can't see this working in South Africa! I took the Metro to a station in the south, then found a bus to the right area – again getting help via sign language. I really am starting to understand how my tour kids must feel in Paris! It does tend to make one feel that people are less friendly, even though this is not a valid assumption. In fact, a little girl on the bus taught me how to say eyes, nose and mouth using her Barbie doll! 

The Coyocan District is far less frenetic than the are I was staying in and I enjoyed strolling around. The museum which is housed where Frida Khalo lived is superb. She is Mexico’s most famous artist and she was married to Diego Rivera – the famous muralist who was twenty-five years older than her. She developed polio as a child and had one leg shorter than the other and was in an horrific tram accident at the age of eighteen which resulted in svere spinal damage and her wearing a heavy corset for the rest of her life. So, quite understandably, much og her art shows her pain. Much also shows her joie de vivre – none more so than her painting in which she depicts herself twice – the Two Fridas. After that, I wondered into a beautiful five hundred year-old church and had a gorgeous lunch – fish at last! I came home to pack and get ready for the next two flights.

One thing I shall always equate with my stay in Mexico is Downton Abbey Series 5! I bought the series in New Zealand when I was staying with Penny Simpson and had the pleasure of watching it in the evenings in Mexico - how incongruous and how fantastic!After ten days in Mexico, I am now heading back into the USA to see the East Coast. I’m starting in New Orleans at another Airbnb, then going to stay with Linda and Duncan Moody (whom I haven’t seen for at least twenty years) in North Carolina before I head for Washington, where I am going to spend some time with Eileen, one of my Global Volunteer friends from the Cook Islands and then New York! So – food and transport will be a lot more expensive, but I will be able to COMMUNICATE! 

One of the ancient Cancun taxis

Janetta and I learning French

Janetta and Benoit - I eventually gave him back his pupil!

My accommodation in Cancun my room is on the middle level

Some of the electrical wiring reminds me of Vietnam - dangerous!

Cancun harbour

Some of the rusty wrecks in the harbour

Isla da Majueres

It looks very Caribbean

Pretty beach

This shows how heavy the swell was 

A charming restaurant in Cancun

I had to pay for this photo - only 5 pesos - strange iguana and strangely tame!

Something about Tulum

Now this reminds me of Zimbabwe Ruins - but somehow more intact

Just to prove I was there!

A lizard sunning himself

Magnificent Mayan ruins at Tulum

Trying the postage stamp trick again!

I love the atmosphere created here

And the beach below - temples were very strategically placed

Mexican mosquitoes draw blood!

I'd love one of these chairs - no space!

And on to the cenote (pronounced "senotay")

Amazing rock formations

And tiny fish

My guide, Chico

Posing before hitting the water

Time to go into the caves

These are tree roots which have broken through the rock - mostly limestone

My Argentinian doctor friend, Ines

Next stop - Mexico City

It is VAST - 25 million inhabitants

And here's my fancy accommodation - complete with plastic flowers everywhere!

The entrance to the quad - the cross of the Convent is still there

The Main Square with a GIANT Mexican flag. The Metropolitan Church is in the background

El Caballito - the Horseman - a modern statue in town

Revolution Arch - there is a lift in the middle to take people to the top

Beautiful wide boulevards - six traffic lanes and pedestrian walkways

Lovely trees in town

A modern shopping arcade with three branches of Starbucks in a space of 100 metres!

This honours soldiers who died defending the castle in 1847

The Fine Arts Museum

There are shoeshine boys everywhere - Mexican men like their shoes to be shiny!

I found the hostel where Natalie and Christi stayed in 2013.  They LOVED Mexico and gave me some good tips.

Statue of Pope John Paul the Second with praying Mary embedded in it

MacDonald's was not that bad - never thought I would succumb though!

Christopher Columbus pointing to America

People sell everything imaginable - including these coloured wigs - and people wear them

The Angel of Independence

Student rioters in my street - literally 50 metres away

Some info on the Templo Mayor - this says it better than I can

Serpent's head which was dug up - there were two of them

Not good to be frog in Aztec times!

Rows of human skulls which were unearthed at the site of the Templo Mayor

Eagle knight - an elite Aztec warrior

Interesting contrast - the ancient temple, the church and a skyscraper in the background

Chacmool - offerings were placed in his bowl and he was an intermediary between God and man

Inside the cathedral - very ornate

A street named after my date of birth! a famous rebellion happened then

Diego Rivera's famous 1934 mural - Man Controlling the Universe. it takes up a whole wall.

And i found a hippo for Jilly! This one is a seat in a park

Children are encouraged to make copies of Mexican statues

I'm not sure what this represents but it is bright and Mexican - maybe all the tribes who make up Mexico now?

This shows where each group originated

Interesting how modern objects are hung above this traditional couple!

Beautiful beadwork

And here we have a Mexican boat - very much longer than the Maori ones I've seen

The stunning entrance to the Archaeological Museum

An Aztec court jester?

Interesting blend of Catholicism  and nature

Some of these masks are as scary as ones I've seen in Venice. I think they are intended to scare!

Ancient rock art

There was an excellent band playing at the Museum

A model for Star Wars?

And here's Chacmool again - with a smaller offering bowl

I love these Mexican colours

A massive Olmec head made of basalt

Some interesting information about Cortes

There are lots of these eerie skeleton dolls around - nice dress though!

Many children are on leads - good idea!

Beautiful jade inside the castle

Castle turret

And lovely stained glass window inside

View from the castle through the park and showing the road I walked down - all for Starbucks coffee!

Three little Mexican cuties pose for me

The Stock Exchange is the ball in the middle of these skyscrapers

Crocodiles in the main street

Monday is washing day on the soapie set!

Police ever present on the streets

View of some of Mexico City on the way to the Pyramids

Cactus time in Mexico City

I climbed up THESE steps - and nearly passed out!

But I recovered for a photo!

Side view of the same steps

Sad story of human sacrifice

And here are the skeletons to prove it was done

The Pyramid of the Sun - I was quite happy to take a pic and move on!

There are always salespeople wherever you go!

The Pyramid of the Moon. I stood and stared for along time before I heard Natalie's voice saying, "You can do it, Ma - you'd better try!"

And so I did....

The view from the top along the Avenue of the Dead 

The skylight under my "dome"

The "dome" is the black thing on the roof and the cages are for washing to dry in

The Leaning Tower of.... Mexico City - no doubt a victim of the moving clay soil

The back of the statue of John Paul the Second - covered in keys

Riot police about 100 metres from my accommodation

Here are the protestors - wearing not much and displaying pictures of the missing students

And here go the police again....

Typical Mexican market stall - nice and bright

A Mexican singer at lunch - have a look at the flag to his left!

And I was there

Garfield, the cat who has come to stay. I woke up one night with him in my room and nibbling my toes! Bernardo and Gitte claim that he must go, but I can see he is winning them over! He even gets Whiskas for supper.

One of Frida Kahlo's paintings showing her casting off her pain

Her famous watermelon painting - Viva la Vida - Long live Life!

And her self-portrait

Her ashes are in her house/museum

Standing in the garden of her home

I don't know what this pescado was called, but he was jolly tasty!

Another beautiful church - this time in Coyocan

And the door on the street leading in to where I stayed in Mexico City for a week! It was interesting, peaceful and just what I needed before going back to the USA!