Saturday, 24 October 2015

EAST COAST USA


FIRST STOP - NEW ORLEANS

After ten days in Mexico, it was time to return to the USA and make my way up the East Coast. I left very early in the morning and checked in at Mexico City’s huge airport. Unfortunately, I had misplaced the other half of my paper allowing me in and so I was sent to a basement room to buy another one for US$25. Of course, when I eventually found the room, I couldn’t find my dollars. An American man was in the same predicament and he kindly offered to pay for me – I am so overwhelmed at times by people’s kindness and generosity. Luckily, I calmed down and looked in my big wallet and found my money. Because I was re-entering the States, my luggage couldn’t be booked through to New Orleans, but had to be collected in Houston. I was lucky to sit next to a really interesting lady lawyer on the flight to Houston. We chatted non-stop – mostly about politics. It has been really interesting to hear the wide range in views on the American President and the elections coming up at the end of next year. It has also been quite shocking to see just how much money is being spent on campaigning – quite obscene amounts!

The plane landed late and taxied for a very long time, so I had to run through yet another airport! I had to clear customs, find my luggage, get my tickets and get to the plane in under twenty minutes – and I made it! The flight to New Orleans was quick and comfortable and there was a lady organizing taxis when we arrived. I went with a Pakistani taxi driver who knew every single South African cricketer and who just loves Hashim Amla – of course! I arrived at my new Airbnb home late in the afternoon and was met by Kai who showed me around. I stayed in an area called St Roch, which was under water ten years ago when Katrina struck! It is not a wealthy neighbourhood and most houses are small, but what friendly people! There are mostly African Americans living in St Roch. I had a huge room and a lounge to myself and my host, Sonnet, had thoughtfully stocked the fridge with coffee, bagels, Philadelphia cheese and peanut butter – yum yum! There were also tons and tons of beautiful books everywhere! Paradise! I watched my last episode of Downton 5, cried because it was sad and because it was over… and went to bed!

The next day, I took off with my map and headed for the bus stop. I must say I felt like I was on the set of “To Kill a Mockingbird”! – not just because of the row-houses and porches with porch swings, but also because all the people I spoke to sounded like Calpurnia! One man at the bus stop was intrigued that I was from South Africa and invited me for tea when I came home – sadly, I didn’t get there though. New Orleans is very pretty – I went straight to the Information Centre – I love pamphlets – and then walked around the French Quarter. It was still quite early on Friday morning so it was quite peaceful. I love walking and exploring as I go.

I went right into town and then had my Nike adventure! Jackie Acton had bought some absolutely wonderful super-light Nike takkies in the States and I saw the same ones at Footlocker. They were jolly expensive – jolly, jolly expensive – but I bought them and was so happy I had found them. The salesman was charming and he even managed to sell me extra socks too. Then, I went for a walk along the waterfront and into a mall where I sat down to play with WiFi – not a good idea, because an hour later, when I was far away, I realized that I had left my jolly expensive new takkies in the mall! So, I ran back, praying all the way. I knew where I must have left them and they weren’t there! I found the security section and…. Someone had handed them in! I hugged the security guard! Let me finish the Nike story – I went past the shop the next morning and told my salesman my happy tale. Then…. at the end of my second day, I was walking along another road when I realized I was late for the bus home – which only went hourly, so I started running. And what should I hear behind me but, “Hey y’all….I seen you runnin in dem new sneakers!” – My shoe salesman! I could have collapsed with laughter. It is moments like these which stand out on my trip – just little moments of kindness or humour! I don’t know how English teachers manage grammar lessons in the South! ‘How y’all doin’?, I ain’t gonna do nuttin’!”…. and many similar phrases are heard often.

The air hostess on our flight to New Orleans – with a real Whoopi Goldberg voice, told me to ask for a Po Boy – in New Orleans. A Poe boy? NO – a paw buoy! Apparently, it is a very huge kind of sandwich. Generally speaking, American food is very big – huge portions and huge plates! I loved the accent, but I had to be careful because I can be a mimic! So I had a calamari starter for lunch and it was more than enough!

I went on the steamboat, Natchez, in the afternoon on a lazy two-hour trip down the Mississippi and made friends with some people from Illinois, a Lebanese couple and two ladies from Glasgow! It is interesting meeting so many people and hearing about their travels too. I strolled through the French market after the boat trip and then waited for the bus, which just didn’t arrive! A German man who waited with me gave up and got a taxi – and I got saved by a lady called Marilyn, who took me to the new bus stop – apparently mine was out of commission – no signs though. She told me she had seen me waiting and so she came to help me – so sweet!

The next day, I again went into town on the bus and I headed for the National World War Two Museum. It was a very long walk, but I was wearing “dem new sneakers” and so I was fine! The museum was spectacular and I spent three hours there. The main exhibit is about D Day and it was excellent – with recordings, film clips and lots to see and read. After that, I went across the road to see a movie made by Tom Hanks all about D Day – it was in a special effects theatre and it was superb! I chatted to a dear old man who had served in the Korean War and who was very interested in South Africa.

Then, I carried on walking right into what is known as the Garden District – full of beautiful old Southern houses with huge verandahs, lovely gardens and lots of porch swings! I bought a croissant on the way from a street caravan – huge and delicious and filled with egg and bacon! I only ate half and had the rest for supper – more big food! In the Garden District, there are some above-ground cemeteries and I went into one – very like the scary one in that movie, “Double Jeopardy”! I also found the house used in the movie, “Benjamin Button”, but I didn’t find Sandra Bullock’s house! Never mind! I walked back into town, had my sneaker moment with the salesman and went home to pack. Sonnet was home and we had a lovely long chat about many things – books, travel….. she was really charming.

The row-house I stayed in - left side!
Looking towards jackson Square
The French Quarter - Bourbon Street
Rude name!
New Orleans - the home of jazz
Here's dem sneakers! Thanks, Jackie - they are also called my Jackie-takkies!
A New Orleans riverboat
Holocaust memorial in New Orleans - you can see the Satr of David from the side only
Here's a clever dad transporting two kids at once!
Can you believe that this is a starter?
Selfie attempt on the Promenade
Otherwise knownn as crocodile biltong!
I liked this sign in one of the market stalls - how true!
The St Roch area

Truly unbelievably big food!
Gold Star moms of WW2. Apparently, young men were rejected for the army if they had fewer than half of their teeth - because they literally would not be able to "bite the bullet"!
Huge and very tasty croissant
Garden District mansion

And the above-ground mausoleums/mausolea?
Benjamin Button's house - complete with Hallowe'en scaries


And a very inviting porch...

My host in New Orleans, Sonnet - also a teacher


SECOND STOP – NORTH CAROLINA WITH THE MOODYS

Again, I had to take two flights to get to my next destination and again, I had to leave very early for the airport and again, I had to go by taxi! I sat next to men on both flights – so no conversations there! Also, it was too early I suppose. I flew to Atlanta in Georgia first and had to catch a train at the airport to take me to the domestic terminal. It was fine. From there, I caught a flight in a very small plane to Greensboro in North Carolina. I hadn’t seen Linda and Duncan Moody for 21 years so I was very excited! Duncan fetched me and took me to Linda’s school where she was busy with play rehearsals! What a theatre! This is Linda’s “office”! It seats 18 000, has many rooms under it and even a basement which can be used in big emergencies for the whole school to hide in! It was built in 1924 and completely refurbished in 2000 at a cost of $6,2 million. 

I watched the rehearsal and was very impressed by the acting! Clearly, Linda loves her job and she is good at it – and I came to visit at a very busy time! I met their son, Daniel, at home and I am happy to say that he is doing so well in his wheelchair – he does excellent work counselling other wheelchair-bound people, he plays tennis and basketball and he is very independent and interesting to talk to. I also met Kathryn later and she is having an “exciting” time teaching some naughty little children! I think she is going to manage well though! She has the Moody spirit!

Linda was given a “comp day” (what a good idea) on Monday – a reward for all her hard work over the weekend and we set off for a lovely day. We started with doughnuts and coffee… always a good start… and then drove to Linda’s office in the Education Department. She is part teacher and part Department lady as she is in charge of theatre studies in the county! She is a busy lady! We then drove along the Blue Ridge Parkway to Boone, the Appalachian university, Grandfather Mountain and a pretty lake. The autumn colours were breath-taking. Of course, there was non-stop chatter and it was really lovely to catch up again. I have so enjoyed re-newing friendships along my way and that has been one of the great blessings of this trip.

The next day, it was Duncan’s turn to look after me and we went for a drive to Hanging Rock waterfalls and to Pilot Mountain. While we were at the pool at the bottom of the falls, I dropped my sunglasses into the eddying water! I didn’t move because I was wearing “dem (expensive) sneakers” and Duncan was trying to get his camera pole loosened… when suddenly a long-legged, long-armed young girl called Amy appeared and reached out and caught my glasses! Superb timing! The scenery was gorgeous yet again and I really enjoyed the drive and getting to know Duncan better.

On Wednesday, Linda and I went out for coffee and met one of her friends called Beth – she was to look after me for the day! We went out for lunch at a beautiful little wine estate and were joined by another lady called Elaine. She had just returned from a visit to southern Africa, mainly to game parks, and so we had lots to talk about. Beth took me for a drive into the Amish area and to her ranch in the afternoon and I pottered around while she did some work. Later, we went for a good long walk with her friend, Jewel, who is a newspaper editor, and her eight dogs! She has dressage areas and even steeple chase tracks on her property, which is called the Thoroughbred Training College. I also met Beth’s daughter, Mary, who is a self-published author at the age of twenty-seven! We met the Moodys for supper and I was transferred back into their care.

On my final day in North Carolina, Duncan and I went to see Salem and its old university. We also saw the Moravian graveyard where men and women are buried separately all with the same flat, square tombstones. It was a small town which joined with Winston (from the cigarettes) and so the name…. Winston-Salem! I spent the afternoon at school with Linda, met some of her colleagues and her classes and also saw her beautiful school, Reynolds High. The children really have so much there – two dance studios, the exquisite theatre, a gigantic library, a fully-equipped sewing room, Apple Macs in the IT lab….. I can see that Linda fits in well there and that she is really making her mark. She directs a straight play and two musicals (one for outside actors too) every year! What a lovely visit!

Linda in "her" theatre

And here is the equivalent of Rubusana - the Education Department District Office
Linda and I in her other office

Let's quickly turn on the computer and pick up the phone - and pose!
Twenty-one years later... Linda's still got a good flag on her car!
Doughnut paradise!
The lovely autumn colours starting...
Statue in Boone - Daniel Boone?

Posing with two statues just called boy and girl!
Lovely lunch spot

And more gorgeous autumn pics....


Americans really do love their flag!

The Moodys home in Kernerville
Off with Duncan...


Duncan at the waterfall
Pool beneath the waterfall
Where I nearly - but didn't - lose my sunglasses
Pilot Mountain behind me
Pilot Mountain
Apparently this is very tasty - from the Amish shop

Baptist church - lots of Baptist churches in this area
Sneeked a pic of these Amish girls at school
Lunch with Beth and Elaine
A really inviting porch - I had a good snooze on one of these rocking chairs!

Don't this look just like Scout's swing?!

A lovely pecan (pronounced "pickarn") tree!

Beth's lovely home

Beth and Jewel with her two sons
Moravian church in Salem
and Moravian tombstones

Salem
Some of Linda's dramatic children!
Reynolds High School

Apple Macs in the IT lab!
Here's Kathryn - all grown up!
And Daniel, with the dog lead he made

THIRD STOP – WASHINGTON DC

Poor Linda and Duncan had to get up very early the next day to get me to the airport for my flight to Washington and I really appreciated that. My plane left at 6.50 and arrived in Washington an hour later. I followed the people in front of me to the baggage claim and then found I was on a trolley/train heading out onto the runway! We had to cross the runway to collect our luggage from another terminal! And another happy reunion awaited me – this time one of my new friends was there to meet me – Eileen Shatz who had been with Fran Johansen and me on the Cook Islands! We had all got on so well on the Cook Islands and it was just like being with an old friend again. We packed my luggage into Eileen’s mini and headed for town! The first thing which strikes you in Washington is that here are US flags everywhere! This is the seat of government and it is important! It is also a very elegant, clean and quite European-feeling city. There are lots of Greek columns on the buildings – what did Nia Vardalos say in “My Big Fat Greek Wedding”? Everyone wishes he or she were born Greek… maybe not so much today though?! The streets are named numerically and alphabetically – except there is no J Street – the old “J” looked too much like an “I”!

We went to my new accommodation – this time I was staying with Fadi, the Palestinian baker from Jordan, in his immaculate apartment! In fact, Fadi’s bakery, Sugar Daddy’s, has been reviewed in the New York Times! I met Fadi, got my keys, dropped my luggage off and Eileen and I went out for coffee and a pastry before she headed back to work and I headed into the Smithsonian area. I spent some time in the Art Museum chasing all the Impressionist art and having a nice long chat with an ex-Marine turned museum guard, then in the Natural History Museum where I even saw a coelacanth on loan from South Africa and finally in the National Portrait Museum which I enjoyed too. Elaine fetched me at about 3pm and we had lunch and headed for Georgetown to explore and look at the shops. It was super being with someone who knows Washington so well and Eileen does – having lived there for over 30 years! It was also super being in a car and not having to pound the streets and rely on public transport.

The next day was Saturday and Eileen had booked us on a tour on Capitol Hill. It was absolutely fascinating and our tour guide was very knowledgeable. There is a lot of scaffolding on the Capitol building as it is being repainted and has to be ready for the January 2017 inauguration of the new president. Each state is allowed to place two statues in the building and it was interesting to see who I recognized! We had lunch there and then went into the Library of Congress, Thomas Jefferson’s personal library and saw two exhibitions – one on Bob Hope and one on the Civil Rights Movement. After that, we went for a walk in town before supper at a superb Peruvian restaurant (all I could think of was don’t Peruvians eat guinea-pigs?). The restaurant, China Chilcano, is renowned for its Peruvian/Italian/Chinese/Korean fusion food and it was excellent. I had dim sum and a gorgeous pudding too. Then…It was off to the Ford’s Theatre nearby to see an excellent show called, “The Guard”. This is the theatre in which Abraham Lincoln was assassinated and there was an interesting museum beneath the theatre. The show was very clever – and I was very spoilt by Eileen!
But… the spoiling didn’t end there! 

On Sunday, we had a late start and went to Georgia Brown’s for some jazz and brunch! What a spread! The bottomless coffee was excellent too. As an extra, you get to take a starter home so we took Southern fried chicken and it really was a big meal – hardly a starter! From there, we went to the Holocaust Museum. It was very well mounted and also very tragic. We just missed speaking to a lady who was a holocaust survivor and who is available every Sunday to talk to interested people. Having visited two concentration camps, I thought I would be prepared for this museum, but nothing prepares you for the horrors which occurred. It was very moving. Eileen took me home to Fadi’s place and we said goodbye, having spent three lovely days together. 

On my final day in Washington, I started by doing Fadi a favour and spraying his back with depilatory cream! The rest was his job! I took the Metro down into town and jumped on the hop on hop off bus to see the rest of Washington. The temperature plummeted to single figures and it was cold on that bus! There are so many historic monuments to see and I am glad I saw them. I also did a lot of walking. Quite often when I ask how far somewhere is, I am told that it is too far to walk and that it will take me at least half an hour – and I end up getting there in under 15 minutes! I found the White House and went to the museum which tells the story of the White House. It’s interesting that there are so many guards there who look like the stereotypical guards – big, burly guys in sunglasses! I had an early night, because I was being fetched by the super shuttle very early the next morning.

So happy Eileen popped back into my life!

Two of my favourite paintings....


The Capitol is behind me
One of the many government buildings - note the Greek columns
"Cupcakery" - now that's a noun (neologism?) I like!
Food vans are everywhere
I found Mark Twain in the National Portrait Museum - quite a tall man!
More lovely columns
Here's our coelocanth
And a hippo for you know who!
Georgetown District - and yet more US flags
Eileen in the Capitol
Union Station
Can you see what's missing? .... Lincoln's ear! 
Rosa parks - seated as if on her bus - has made it to the Capitol! Good for her!
Posing next to the statue of King Kamehameha of Hawaii
Wonderful tribute to Bob Hope
Thomas Jefferson's library - donated to Congress
Friends reunited
More beautiful architecture
China Chilcano Restaurant
Two stripey ladies!
Wonderful pudding - caramel, meringues, cream and passion fruit!
Abraham Lincoln died in the building in the middle - across the road from the Ford's Theatre
Waiting for the show

Lincoln's balcony where he was shot
Eating again! This time at Georgia Brown's!
Washington Monument
Holocaust Museum.....

Jefferson Memorial

World war Two Memorial
In front of the White House
I'm a picnic person!


PART FOUR – NEW YORK

I was ready at the entrance for the shuttle to the airport by 6pm and Adam, the garden designer and watchman, waited with me. I got to the airport in an hour and was put on an earlier flight. Yet again, we were in a very small plane. It had rows 1 – 4 then suddenly went to 18 – 23. I was in 23E which was very weird as it was the middle seat in the back and faced the aisle. Two angels sat next to me – Monica and Theresa – both New York experts and both so very kind. They gave me lots of advice and Theresa was going to show me how to get into Manhattan from Newark Airport where we landed (in New Jersey) when Monica offered to give me a lift in her taxi. It cost $75 and she wouldn’t let me share costs! Then I carried on in the taxi for another $35 to my new home with Natasha from Serbia in Spanish/East Harlem. There were lots of Hispanic and African American people in the area, whuich made it feel very authentic. I must admit the apartment looked dodgy from the outside, but up three flights of stairs, with Natasha carrying the purple peril for me, a lovely welcome awaited me. Natasha’s place was spotless and her charming brother, Sergei was visiting. We were on the third floor overlooking a school and the basketball court in particular – a little “Finding Forrester” there! Luckily, I had earplugs too because it was very noisy at night.

I got instructions for the subway and hit the road. I bought a metro card and got off at Grand Central Station, walked around to Times Square and found the hop on hop off bus. I managed to get a very good deal – I think at last I am perfecting the “I am not really interested” look – and I went into a juice bar to read about the different options. One of the salesman followed me in and I managed to get a reduction and a five-day (instead of two-day) pass – for just over R800! That gave me five routes and included the Circle Line Cruise boat trip. Sometimes, it does pay to play at being hard to get! I jumped on the bus and stayed on for the Downtown route. What a lot of skyscrapers and what a lot of people! I found my way home quite easily – everyone was so helpful at pointing me in the right direction – I am not always sure which is east and which is west and that is how streets are numbered either side of Fifth Avenue. Invariably, my instinct is upside down and so I take off, turn around – and then find I am going in the right direction! 

On the Wednesday, I took the subway to Brooklyn Heights and walked along the promenade. On Natasha’s recommendation, I bought a butter and pecan nut ice cream – really good and worth the R70 it cost! New York is very expensive and I soon got into picnic food mode and used the grocery store up the road! After that, I took the cruise which stopped at Wall Street, went around the Statue of Liberty and then dropped me off in Battery Park in the very south of Manhattan. I sat next to a lady called Pascale from the south of France and translated for her from the boat commentary! There were so many French people in New York that I think I spoke more French than English!
I then walked to Ground Zero, past one of the remembrance pools. The museum is very well documented and very moving – there are voices speaking from phone calls made on that day, damaged fire engines, bits of the aeroplanes, shoes which were found…..After that, I went to the little church nearby which stood amid all the chaos and provided solace and help for over nine months after the tragedy of 9/11. From there, it was a short walk to the City Hall where I met the squirrel man who feeds the cheeky squirrels every day. I then found my way home on the subway.

On Thursday, I decided to walk into the northernmost part of Central Park – on 110th Avenue where I was staying. It was beautiful. I ended up at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and spent a lot of time visiting the Egyptian exhibition, which was most impressive. I even asked the guard if there was anything left in Egypt for Janice and me to see in November! I found lots of beautiful Impressionist art, which is my favourite. After about four hours, I came out, jumped on the hop on hop off bus which pulled up just in time and did the Uptown route, getting off at the huge Gothic church in 113th Avenue – the Church of St John the Evangelist. It was beautiful and peaceful inside. After that, I walked home – about two kilometres and even gave directions to some New Yorkers who were lost!

I had a later start on Friday and took the subway down to the Chelsea area. There is a new park there called the High Line – it is built on old railway tracks and is very pretty and clever. Unfortunately, a lot of long grass has been planted there and I sneezed and sneezed. The autumn colours in New York are magnificent, but the falling leaves definitely affected me and I used a whole bottle of nose spray just to cope! I walked down to the Chelsea Pier and into the market. There were so many pumpkins and Hallowe’en scenes everywhere – obviously very big in the USA! I needed to get to the Rockefeller Centre so I jumped on another Hop on Hop Off bus and arrived there a bit later – quite a bit later, because traffic was bad and the bus was slow! I pondered going up to the top, walked around for a while, came back and went inside – only to be told that the waiting time was three hours! So, I left it – I wasn’t really all that keen to go so high up! I went into St Patrick’s Cathedral where the Pope had visited and then went home. Interesting facts: there are 465 Starbucks branches in Manhattan and 9 000 benches in Central Park!

On my last day in New York, I decided to walk as much as possible. I took the subway into town just so I could walk around Macy’s, the world’s largest department store, and then on to the Plaza Hotel – so I could take a picture for my fellow English teachers who have taught, “The Great Gatsby”. It was beautiful inside. Then, I entered Central Park from the south end at 59th Street and walked for about five hours all the way up to 110th Street! It was exquisitely beautiful inside and I meandered around taking lots of photos, witnessing a wedding, seeing a poor raccoon fall out of a tree and eating my picnic food! I popped into the Guggenheim Museum of Art – there were some Impressionist paintings there, but mostly some very modern art, for which I haven’t developed a liking yet! Never mind! The gallery itself is very interestingly built. 

When I got home, my host Natasha was there and we had a nice long chat. It has been interesting in New York, but I have missed having a friend with me – I have had some casual chats along the way, but it is always nice to share experiences. Strangely, it has always been noisy around me because New Yorkers are generally quite loud and lots talk on their phones as they walk! Fortunately, New York was my last solo stint!

Then it was time to post my blog, sort out my packing and get ready for the next leg of my trip – Canada to visit Wendy and Mark Hartley (Wendy is the sister of my brother-in-law, Andy Rogers) in Toronto and then my new cruise friend, Louise Bedart, in Quebec.

And next Saturday, 31 October, I shall be flying to London – and that will mark my complete circumnavigation of the world! How lucky can a girl get! I’ll have four days at the World Travel Market (my tour operator, Operation Europe, has organized that for me and I am hoping this could be the start of my new career), then three days in Reykjavik with my great friend, Janice Schultz, before we head for Egypt and a Nile cruise…..then a week to recover in London before I head for home! 

My flight from London to Johannesburg will be my 60th and I am going to ask really nicely for an upgrade so I can travel with the larnies in the front of the plane, have real cutlery, maybe some champagne and a bed which will recline properly and allow me to sleep! I am sure I’ll manage that!! I am going to try hard – I have stuck with Star Alliance all the way…. Here’s hoping for the best!

Sunrise in Washington
My strange seat in the middle of the back row of the plane
Monica and Theresa - two New York angels. New Yorkers are very kind and helpful.
Off in our yellow cab!
Grand Central station - a beautiful building

Busy New York
The famous Flatiron building - going to become a hotel soon
Battery Park
Manhattan skyline

Lady Liberty
On the Circle Line cruise

The North Pool at Ground Zero - where one of the Twin Towers once stood




Damaged fire engine
Memorial corner in St Paul's church
St Paul's church
A beautiful poem which was written about the church which STOOD
A very tame squirrel fed by the squirrel man
City Hall
Central Park north
Two dog-walkers with their hands full!
All school buses really do look like this - just as in the movies. one even had a sign in it sayinmg, "bus checked for sleeping kids"!
Some Egyptian artefacts

A Pacific Island painting for Fran and Eileen - Paul Gaugin
and a Van Gogh...
I just love the light in this one...
Good to see our Trevor doing so well in New York!
View from the High Line
More pumpkins - at the Chelsea Market
New Yorkers also like the Greek columns...
And more food carts...
Skating rink at the Rockefeller Centre


Macy's bedding just for Christmas!
Inside the Plaza Hotel
And here are lots of pics taken in Central Park...

Christopher Columbus pops up again!




Cute plaque on one of the benches......


Poor raccoon just couldn't hang on......





Picasso at the Guggenheim
Inside the Guggenheim
And some pretty flowers seen on my way home.....bye bye USA!



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