BLOG 6 - IT’S ISTANBUL – NOT CONSTANTNOPLE!

After spending 15 days in Greece, it was quite a change to arrive in Istanbul, Turkey. It was quite a change not to hear Greek. Turkish sounds very difficult! And it is even more difficult to read! We had a lovely flight from Athens and arrived to long queues at Istanbul airport where both Adrian and I became South Africans again and entered on our SA passports so there was no charge for visas. Had we used our British ones, we would have paid 20 US dollars each! We had excellent directions and instructions from Alper, our Airbnb host, and so we bought tickets for the Metro and for the tram, both of which were crowded but easy to use.

Alper met us at the train station and walked with us to his amazing apartment. It is in the old part of Istanbul, six tram stops away from the Grand Bazaar and only eight from the Sultanhamet, where all the old buildings are. The apartment is partly a basement and is huge – we had lovely big bedrooms, a gigantic wet room/shower, a lovely lounge/dining room/kitchen and it was super cool! We went for an orientation walk the first night and were surprised to see so many people gathered around the Blue Mosque area. We realised that the big picnics were being held as it was still Ramadan and this was the first meal of the day. We ended up around the coast and were lured into a lovely restaurant on a rooftop – with rooftop prices to match! When we ordered just a drink delicious lentil soup, we received less attention!

The next day was Monday and we were up early to explore. We visited the beautiful Blue Mosque – I had a big scarf, but that wasn’t enough and I was given another scarf to wear – and Adrian was given a long piece of cloth to cover his legs! It feels strange wandering into a mosque and feeling like it is a monument – everyone takes photographs and we all just file through. After that, we were accosted by a smart Turk who sold us tickets for a Bosphorus cruise – another one led us to the harbour and another one put us on the boat and the fourth one was the commentator! Talk about excellent team work! It is amazing how so many people we spoke to in Istanbul are from places such as Iraq, Iran, Syria, and Palestine….all over the Middle East. The cruise was superb –and we sailed for over two hours. I always love being on the water – just as Adrian is obsessed with aeroplanes!

I was feeling very stressed out, because of the ongoing saga in Bali with airports being closed, re-opened briefly and closed again because of volcanic ash! Luckily, I have the BEST travel agent in town and when I asked her to make the changes, Claire Gawler from Aloe Travel was able to re-route me to Thailand. And that was for Wednesday! I must admit to feeling quite shaky – I had made all my Bali plans, done lots of research, checked out and booked stunning accommodation – and now I had two days to re-think it all! AND I had nowhere to stay in Thailand! Part of this trip is definitely learning to cope with change, being flexible and having to think on my feet – and here was my first big test!

Adrian went into the Topkapi Palace and I went to a restaurant with Wi-Fi to start looking for accommodation! It is not easy to find free Wi-Fi in Istanbul and it definitely feels more controlled.  I searched and searched and found places in Kho Samui and in Phuket.  Both accepted me later that night. I waited to hear from the host in Bangkok! On Tuesday morning, I got a message to say that the place I wanted in Bangkok was unavailable! So… back to the search with hardly any time left. Luckily, I found a place and had absolutely no idea where it was – but it was a bed!

We could then relax and we went to visit the Hagia Sophia – a most amazing building which is part mosque, part church. The very wise Ataturk declared it a museum and said that both religions were to be tolerated. It is full of Christian mosaics and Islamic architecture. Because it is more of a museum, dress regulations are not that strict.

After this visit and a good Turkish lunch, we stopped at the Turkish delight shop where Mohammed from Palestine helped Adrian buy a nice mixture to take home. We were given lovely pomegranate tea to drink while this was being done. Then, we hit the Grand Bazaar again – we had paid a short visit the night before. These salesmen are manipulation on wheels! Firstly, they kept saying – you are from South Africa! Wow! More like – “dah!” – I was wearing my SAA peak! And of course, one look at Adrian meant – “you want/need a leather jacket!” Adrian tried on many and we moved between stalls and sulky faces – and of course, every Turk has a cousin in Johannesburg! We all know that! Adrian fell in love with one nice blazer jacket, but we found the salesman so grumpy and such a bully that he didn’t buy it in the end. He did buy five beautiful pashminas though and I am proud to say, we played these men at their own game, moving among them quickly!

I played the baddie – calls of “Madame! Madame! Excuse me! Excuse me!” left me unperturbed! I am also very proud to say that I have got over my magpie-like quest for all sorts of brightly-coloured “stuff” – at last! I have no space in my suitcase and I have finally realised that I don’t need most of the things I buy – I do like buying presents though! It’s a pity we can’t take the risk of posting parcels home.

Thanks to Adrian Slaughter for sharing this part of my journey with me – we are quite the odd couple as he is so neat and orderly and I am so NOT! I shall provide pictorial evidence at the expense of my reputation! As Adrian packed to leave for South Africa and to go back to school, I had to get ready for a very long flight from Istanbul to Singapore – and losing five hours in the process – and then to Bangkok, arriving in Thailand on my own for a whole week!

I can do this! And I know my friends and family are with me! I also know that God will always be my sustainer and protector. In fact, the words, “God will make a way when it seems there is no way…” keep ringing in my head.  From potential disaster had I landed in Bali to the possibility of experiencing Thailand, He has made a way!

And so far, God has not let me down – and He never will! Halleluiah!

 

Basement apartment - really comfy

Istanbul skyline from rooftop restaurant

Curious Istanbul kitty on the rooftop

And another curious kitty



In front of the Blue Mosque

Adrian in his man-skirt

And Mother Mary!

Getting quite comfortable in that skirt

Turkish ladies heading for the Blue Mosque



Ceiling in the Blue Mosque

Turkish lady weaving a silk carpet - exquisite!

View of the Bosphorus from the restaurant at Topkapi Palace

With my Kurdish waiter who wanted English lessons - his name is Craig White!?

Blue Mosque from the water

Lovely Istanbul skyline

What a contrast - ancient city and modern cruise liner!

Christian mosaics in the Hagia Sophia

Hagia Sophia inside

Adrian buys his Turkish delights from our friend, Mohammed

And eats his daily porridge.... straight from the pot!

Bags at the Grand Bazaar

Apple tea after successful negotiations for pashminas



Proof that tulips do originally come from Istanbul! They really do!

Now here's a banana crepe!

More Turkish delights and natural honey in front



And lots of spices!

Adrian unpacks....

And I unpack......bit of  a contrast!

Time to confess - this is how I am travelling! And I am managing!
The big purple peril is easy to move on her four wheels and I am so happy to have my laptop with me. I just attach it to the handle of my small case and pull the two together in the airport.