Sunday, 16 August 2015

EIGHT DAYS IN NEW ZEALAND BEFORE COOK ISLANDS


 

The flight from Melbourne to Christchurch took just over 3 hours and we arrived close to midnight. Customs was very strict again and the sniffer dog sniffed all our luggage. Apparently, you pay very big fines for bringing the wrong things into New Zealand – especially apples which can carry goggas! Jurgen Muller came to fetch me and I must admit I wondered what language he was speaking! He has such a New Zealand accent – and I obviously sound strangely South African! We had a long chat and a good catch-up and I went to bed at 2am – having lost another two hours – so ten hours ahead of South Africa now! My bed was super warm with a lovely electric blanket welcoming me.

The next day was my only day in Christchurch so Grace and Jurgen wanted to show me around the famous garden city – the weather did not play ball! We drove up to a high lookout point and the snow and mist came down, so I didn’t get to see the beautiful bay…..instead I nearly got knocked over by Jurgen’s staffador and a boisterous labrador. We tried to go into the centre of town so Jurgs could show me the earthquake damage – and the rain came down again! It was quite sad and shocking to see how devastating some of the quake damage was and to hear that some people are still arguing about reconstruction (especially with regard to one of the beautiful churches) and so, no progress has been made! I can see that Christchurch is a pretty city though, despite the weather and the damage. The people there must certainly be very resilient! Again, I was struck by so many wooden/clad houses – obviously better given the earthquake activity. AND – no signs of burglar bars, and very few walls or even locked gates.
Grace and I had more luck in the covered mall. It was great to stay with friends again and for me to see how well the Mullers have settled and to meet their three lovely children – Anneke, Tim and Dom – all sporty like their parents! We had a special dinner on Sunday and Grace and the children unveiled their fancy pudding – from a recipe from “The Great British Bake-off” – it would have won a prize, for sure!

 
Christchurch, here we come!
 
Chilly walk with Jurgs and Grace
 
Snow in Christchurch
 
Winter is here!
 
Trying to hide behind Jurgen!
 
Jurgs helping me with my boots - where is my sock!
 
Thanks for the fancy pudding!
 
Christchurch city centre - earthquake damage
 
Not sure what this is!
 
Michelin woman!
 
Interesting roof in Christchurch
 
The whole Muller family - all nice and warm


On Monday morning, I said goodbye to the Mullers as they left for work and school and I waited for my friend, Val Morgan, to come and fetch me. She is also a Zimbabwean who has lived in South Africa – and who has been in New Zealand for twenty years! In fact, we hadn’t seen each other for twenty years so I was taking quite a gamble jumping into a campervan with her and heading off further south into the snow of South Island! Clearly, my days of dodging winter were over! After a happy reunion and telling each other that each of us hadn’t changed a bit, we were off in our cute Jucy Lucy campervan. Val is a coach driver and so I knew I was in safe hands!

We made our way to Queenstown on the south-west side, stopping for a snack and to see Lake Tekapo and the quaint little church and statue of a faithful sheepdog next to it. We also stopped to see Val’s son who is a bee-keeper in Twizel – pronounced Twaaizell! There are two thousand hives on the property and the honey gets exported to China and Europe. Some of the little towns we passed through were reminiscent of places where “my brother Darryl and my other brother, Darryl” must have lived! (Bob Newhart fans will know what I mean!) It seems life is very slow and easy there. We got to Queenstown in the dark, went out for some supper and then set up the van in the campervan park next to the cemetery – rather Val set it all up and gave me orders when it came to simple things I could manage. It was a chilly night and the temperature dropped to below freezing!

The next morning, we had breakfast in the van – Val doing the cooking – and phoned the helicopter company to check that our booked flight was still on! Apparently, there were not enough people so I told the lady that I had come all the way from South Africa – she phoned around and luckily, two more people booked. We drove to the little airport and met our pilot and helicopter (and Dave and Jessica) and then took off for a one and a half hour flight. Was it spectacular! We flew to Milford Sound and got out to take some photos and then, we landed on a glacier. The views were absolutely beautiful and our pilot gave us lots of info – just in “New Zealand” again! It was also amazing to see how many sheep graze in very steep valleys.

We went for lunch afterwards and then walked around the town, through the park and along the lake in Queenstown. In many ways, it all reminded me of Interlaken in Switzerland, just on a bigger scale. We watched some TV back at the campervan site and had a good chat to a truck driver who knew a lot about politics – even in Zimbabwe and South Africa. We kept the heater on all night in the van and woke up to minus 5 degrees the next morning. I have never worn five layers of clothing before – this time I did! Michelin man gone wrong!
Friends meet again - twenty years later

Val vroeteling  in the campervan

Good advice on the numberplate

And even better advice!

Val trying to be Jucy Lucy

On the way to Queenstown

Time for a pose next to Lake Tekapo

Lake Tekapo

Church next to the lake

And a memorial to all faithful sheepdogs

Here come some of NZ's famous sheep - complete with sheep mentality!

And the beautiful scenery continues....




Couldn't find the mugs so Val made me drink my coffee from a bowl

It is really this picturesque


Helicopter landing to walk towards Milford Sound
Photobombing Val's selfie!


Here's our helicopter

Landing on the glacier

More views from the helicopter




View from the restaurant

Interesting one - looks like the houses are balanced on the railing - took it by accident!

Lake near Queenstown

At the harbour

Arrowtown - old Wild West feel! This was a thriving town in the gold rush days

Breakfast and sunshine - good combo

Arrowtown

On the way to Clyde

The famous Mrs Jones grocer's

And now the toilet rules change.....poor Chinese people!

More beautiful scenery..

Just love these sheep!

We went down this road looking for lunch - but turned around when we saw the street name!

The Paris bridges have lovers' padlocks - the New Zealand south islanders tie up their takkies/trainers!

Lake near Queenstown

 

It really is time to change my clothes... so over them!


We spent that day ambling down to Dunedin, even further south. We stopped at a pretty old gold-mining town called Arrowtown – now more of a tourist attraction and enjoyed the warm fire in the pub where we had a good breakfast. Thank goodness Val is such an experienced driver and I didn’t have my licence – she did a lot of driving. We passed through more pretty, tiny, sleepy towns and found our way into Dunedin late in the afternoon! It was time for Val to meet some of my friends - Pete and Megan Odgers! They gave us a lovely welcome, a good supper and warm beds! It was very hard to believe that they have been in New Zealand for 17 years already – although the Kiwi accents are a big clue! Pete is teaching woodwork at the beautiful Otago Boys’ High (a traditional boys’ school and breeding ground of many All Blacks, I’m told) and Megan is the Principal at Ravensbourne, a small junior primary school. Their home is beautiful and they very kindly welcomed us.

Val left the next day for two more days of meandering in the campervan on her way back to Christchurch and Megan and I spent the day travelling all over the Otago Peninsular. I am very grateful that she took the day off to show me around – and also that she likes coffee stops as much as I do. We did pop in to her school and I met some of her pupils – very cute. Apparently, one asked her if I lived in a hut when I told the kids I was from Africa! They do a strange thing at the start of school in New Zealand – a child starts school on his or her fifth birthday – it sounds strange to me, but apparently, it works! The scenery is spectacular and I enjoyed the drive – until yet another bird decided to attack me! At a famous lookout point, we stopped for Megan to take a photo of me. There were some chickens scratching around – just chickens – but one decided to peck my calf while I was posing! I just don’t know what it is with me and birds!

We went home late in the afternoon and Pete said he would take me to Tunnel Beach – cool, I like looking at beaches! But – this beach was way below us and we had to walk down slippery muddy pathways, over rocks to get to a tunnel which had been dug long ago by the poor servants of some rich people who had a mansion called Cargill’s Castle on the hill and wanted their own private route to the beach below. I moaned like a stuck pig all the time – just to keep Odge happy – in reality though, it was a lovely climb and the beach was magnificent….. and it was more than worthwhile.

I went in to school with Pete the next day. At the morning staff meeting, he introduced me to the staff and the headmaster was quick to tell them not to get funny ideas after hearing about my “escape”! I spent some time with a Matric class doing English and spoke to some of the boys. I also spent some time with, Athanassos, the counsellor – not for counselling, but because he is Greek! He even made me lovey Greek coffee in genuine Greek coffee cups! The school is beautiful – a more modern new part and a very Scottish looking older part, built over 150 years ago. Dunedin is very near the bottom of the world – I think only Invercargill and some penguins are further south – but it is well worth visiting and Pete and Megan are superb tour guides and hosts! It is very spread out and has a population of only 150 000 – and a magnificent new covered stadium. I believe Neil Diamond is on his way and the Otago Crusaders play there.

I left school at about 11am and wandered around town, visiting two lovely churches and both museums – Toitu Otago Settlers Museum and Otago Museum. Both were fascinating and gave me lots of insight into the founding of New Zealand, the flora and fauna…. And much more. There was even an exhibition of old “things” and I was horrified to see many of the thing I (and lots of you!) grew up with – including an old mincing machine, those washing machines, with a small plastic bin for the washing, which used to jump around our kitchens, an old Philips TV and even an old school bus, just like the ones we had in Zimbabwe. You had some seats that faced inwards and you pulled the bell on a white wire along the side of the bus! I went into the bus and met an old Maori man who told me that they showed the same film in the bus every day! It was the information documentary telling you about the bus! I told him that maybe that was for people like me who hadn’t seen it before! I read up more about Sir Edmund Hillary, a real NZ legend, who seems to have been a wonderful man as he did so much for the local people around Mount Everest and their families after his great climb. I also went into the Tropical House just to remember decent temperatures! It was full of brightly-coloured butterflies. What was also interesting was the section about the Polynesian islanders – especially as I am about to go to the Cook Islands!

After a quick haircut and colour – strangely dark! – we went home for a nice warm supper and a very welcome bath for me! Poor Pete had to get up extra early on Saturday to take me to the airport for my flight to Christchurch.
Posing with Megan - expert tour guide

Cliffs in Dunedin

View from Megan's office window - she's not suffering!

Lovely children... who think I live in a hut!

And these ones tried to intimidate me with their haka!








Attacked .... by chickens!

 


View over Dunedin

Before the slippery, muddy climb down to Tunnel Beach

Everyone has a hole in the wall!

Down to Tunnel Beach

Lovely gorse bushes


Odgie posing in his state-of-the-art woodwork room

My Greek friend, Athanassis, making me Greek coffee in the staffroom

View of Otago Boys' High

Robbie Burns with the Cathedral behind him - his nephew was a minister in Dunedin

The octagon in Dunedin

Old railway station

Art sow in the railway station

Precursor to our campervan - in the museum

Ancient computer

Love this cat - the world record for loud purring

English teachers love to know where idioms come from

Presbyterian church in Dunedin

And a turtle for Natalie....

And orchids for Jenny VDM, the orchid expert

Spot the butterfly

No live albatrosses around (wrong season) so I found one in the museum

Sad photo - caption reads..."What did I do wrong?"

 

Photos from a competition held by the museum

Student digs in Dunedin

Dunedin university - very British feel

A woodwork teacher and a BIG tree

Sunset in Dunedin

 
 
 
I had a lovely flight chatting to Glyn, an All-Black supporter, on his way to Auckland for the big game against Australia. From Christchurch, which I have yet to see because it was still wet and foggy, I flew on to Auckland…. to be met by Val, who had returned the van in Christchurch and then flown to Auckland – her home – to fetch me! What a good friend! We went to visit her parents, whom I hadn’t seen for a very long time, and that was super! Now it was time for some North Island exploring, so Val took me for a long drive and then we met some friends of hers for supper in the centre of town at a Turkish restaurant, complete with belly dancer! We spent the night at the home of one of her friends.

My last day in New Zealand was spent driving around again and then meeting up with more friends – Pat and Edie Henchie! We met them in Orewa, between Auckland and Warkworth, where they live and both teach! It was great to see how well they have settled too – and to share my lovely friends with Val! In fact, I think Pat might have been motivated to become a coach driver having chatted to Val! Val and three friends played tennis in the afternoon, while I got on with some of this blog!

Val's parents - the Wilkens from East London....

Rangitoto - a "new" volcano - only 600 years old!

Val next to her bus

Harbour in Auckland

Peaceful beach scene

The Henchman - and the campervan he fitted out!

Lunch with Val, Pat and Edie

Happy Henchies

Coming into Auckland

Auckland harbour bridge

Ferry terminal


What next? Well, tomorrow at 9.45 I fly to the Cook Islands – and I arrive there on Sunday (today!) at 3.30 – so I am getting my first experience of crossing the International Dateline! That is going to be weird, but I’m sure I’ll be fine because most days feel like Saturday to me! I am really looking forward to my teaching for the next three weeks. It will be good to be in the same bed for three weeks and to get to know the people and to feel useful. I have not done a lot of googling about the Cook Islands, because I want it to be a fresh experience. I am going to do my best to make a difference and I know that God will be stretching me and giving me some wonderful opportunities in this very far-flung place. When I read “A Pattern of Islands” by Arthur Grimble at school at the age of 13, I fell in love with this area. The story is set in the Gilbert and Ellice Islands, now Kiribati, just north of the Cook Islands, and is the autobiography of a young English cadet sent into the “colonies” in the early twentieth century. It seems to me that I was meant to go there one day, and that day has come!